KTOG Forum - PF9 DISASSEMBLY AND REPAIR

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Grand Poobah

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PF9 DISASSEMBLY AND REPAIR
04/14/07 at 07:16:53

This is a work in progress.

CONTENTS:

POST SUBJECT
0 FIELD STRIP INSTRUCTIONS
1 EXTRACTOR AND FIRING PIN
1 REPLACING RUSTY HAMMER-BLOCK PIN
2 SIGHTS
3 REPLACING EJECTOR & FIX FOR WALKING EJECTOR PIN
4 MAGAZINE CATCH
5 MAGAZINE and IF SLIDE FAILS TO LOCK BACK
6 FRAME REMOVAL
7 HAMMER SPRING
8 TRIGGER PARTS--TRIGGER CLICKS, IS ROUGH OR WON'T FIRE
9 HAMMER BLOCK/GRIP CHANGE
10 IF TRIGGER SPRING POPS OUT
11 REASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
12 SOME PF9 MODIFICATIONS:
      LHS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
WILSON SCALLOP EJECTOR MOD
   STRAIGHTENING THE P-9 ACCESSORY RAIL
   Easy trigger stop for PF-9
   SMOOTHING AND DESNAGGING THE GRIP
13 ACCURACY TIPS
14 DAT INSTALLATION

PF9 FIELD STRIP INSTRUCTIONS:

DISASSEMBLY:

   1) Lock back your slide. Remove magazine.

   2) Lay unloaded gun on right side on padding or newspaper. You will see the assembly pin highlighted in the big rectangular slide cut-out:

Click image to enlarge


   3) Hook rim of case into top of assembly pin, while keeping pressure down on the grip area beside the pin.

   4) Slowly WIGGLE out the assembly pin.

   5) Point nose of pistol upward. Pull back on slide and, while holding it, slowly let it go forward:

Click image to enlarge

push slide off towards front. You now have three pieces of gun. If for any reason, slide will not come off the rails: Push barrel in from front and let slide go forward.

   6) hold the slide upside down in your right hand with tip of thumb against back of recoil spring.

   7) Hold spring down with left hand (so it doesn't fly off) and SLOWLY push spring forward and slightly up with thumb. Ease the pressure off, let spring slowly expand and remove it.

   8] Push barrel up from bottom, wiggle it, and pull it up and back to remove it.

   This is as far as you need to go to inspect, clean and lube.

REASSEMBLY:

   1) Place barrel back into slide. If you haven't already done so, slightly bevel the front of the recoil guide rod with file and/or sandpaper.

   2) Replace springs on guide rod. It doesn't matter which way they go. Poke tip of spring and guide rod into hole in front of slide.

   3) while controlling spring with left hand, push spring forward with thumb so guide rod slides into hole and allow it to seat in the barrel. Make sure the guide rod is in the barrel SOCKET and not on the SHELF in front of the socket. You are now back to 3 pieces.

   4) Make sure the hammer is pulled back to "Half C o c k." Push slide back onto frame rails. Insert EMPTY magazine.

   5) Hold pistol pointing toward floor.

   6 Push barrel down slightly through ejection slot:

Click image to enlarge

You will feel it release from lock. Now hold it there while shifting your grip so barrel STAYS depressed while slide goes back. This is IMPORTANT. If you don't release barrel from lock, then it won't travel forward enough to install assembly pin. And THEN it may be hard to get the slide to come off of the rails.

   Not doing this could also cause the recoil spring guide rod to slip out of its socket, run itself back into the magazine well, and jam the slide.

   7) Still pointing toward floor, and holding barrel unlocked, push slide back until it locks on the empty magazine.

   8] Pull barrel sharply toward floor.

   9) Insert assembly pin with groove upward, and while wiggling barrel, push to seat. Make sure you hear a distinct CLICK as the pin seats. CAUTION: AN UNSEATED PIN CAN WALK OUT DURING FIRING AND RUIN THE FRAME.

   10) Insert snap cap in magazine, rack slide to chamber it and dry fire to make sure all is well.

That's it.

Enjoy, Packer.

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Grand Poobah

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Re: PF9 DISASSEMBLY
Reply #1 - 04/14/07 at 07:17:25

REPLACING RUSTY HAMMER BLOCK PIN iis at the END of this post.

EXTRACTOR AND FIRING PIN REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT.

TO REMOVE AND INSTALL extractor First order new extractor, spring and new hardened button head screw. Buy some blue loctite. You will need a 5/64" Allen Wrench:

WITHOUT MESSING WITH FIRING PIN:

1. Dry fire. (With AZoom snap cap)
2. Leave hammer down. Do not move slide. This will hold firing pin in place.
3. Remove button head screw. Heat loosen if necessary.

Click image to enlarge

4. Remove old spring and extractor:

Click image to enlarge

  Clean away any carbon deposits under extractor and spring and ON spring. (Or on extractor if you are reusing it)
5. Replace extractor and spring.
6. Apply a wee bit of loctite on threads just under head of screw.
7. If slide has not been moved: Install screw and tighten.

REMOVE AND INSTALL FIRING PIN:

TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED, 5/64” Allen wrench, Needle nosed pliers, Coffee stirrer, Drill bits. Blue Loctite, Silicone Spray.

This is not hard to do:

   The screw (On the right side of slide.) might be hard to remove, (Usually isn't.) due to a chewed up end. You might have to heat it up with a hairdryer or soldering iron to loosen the Loctite.

How to remove FP:

1. Lock slide back.
2. Remove slide.
3. With rear of slide resting on bunched up towel, unscrew right-side Allen screw until FP is loose. It should be touching towel at this point, and it will fall out when you lift the gun. If it does NOT fall out, then you will have to grasp it with needle nosed pliers and pull it out.

Click image to enlarge

If spring is broken, you will have to beat it out by hitting back of slide against towel. A thin piece of wire pushed in from breech face may help to push out all pieces.

Using a properly sized drill bit, (by hand) ream out the inside of the FP channel to clean up any sharp projections that can snag and break spring:

Click image to enlarge

THIS IS AN IN-AND-OUT MOTION, NOT A TWISTING ONE. CAUTION: DO NOT ENLARGE FIRING PIN CHANNEL. You may find quite a few filings on the drill afterwards:

Click image to enlarge

Check end of screw: If it is buggered up from dry firing, either file/sand it smooth or replace it.

Clean out hole thoroughly to make sure there are no metal shavings in there. A pipe cleaner twisty works well.

INSTALL FIRING PIN: First spray a little Silicone spray into FP chamber.

1. Install the extractor, spring and slightly start the button head screw. Apply a little blue Loctite (just a tiny dab with a toothpick.) under head of screw. Slide a coffee stirrer onto the projecting “pin” on the back of the Firing Pin.

Click image to enlarge

Install spring onto the Firing Pin and insert the Firing Pin into its channel. Turn Firing Pin (with coffee stirrer) so notch is below the screw.

Click image to enlarge

2. Hold FP in and slowly tighten screw The screw should turn easily until it is tight. If you encounter any resistance—STOP and make sure the firing pin can move. The Firing Pin notch may not be in proper position for the screw to enter it.

You don't want to screw too fast into the Firing Pin and bugger it up. Don't really tighten down screw until you are SURE that the firing pin moves easily in and out.

Click image to enlarge

3. Now push firing pin in and out. Make sure it moves freely.

That's it.

REPLACING RUSTY HAMMER BLOCK PIN:

See that shiny pin at the back? Yours may not BE shiny:

Click image to enlarge

You CAN do this without removing hammer block. (What can be a difficult job.)

1. First call KT service, (1-800-515-9983) and have them send you a new hammer-block pin.

2. Remove slide.

3. Lube new pin up good and (from the left side and with right side sitting on a socket or UMC cartridge caddy, drive out the old pin while driving IN the new pin.

Quote from ktwm on 08/03/07 at 13:41:51:

BTW the hammer block pin is NOT symetrical so you have to drive it in in the correct orientation. if you look at your parts diagram you should be able to tell how it orients. (The 2 grooves are off center and should be off to the right side fo the gun)

The easiest solution would be to simply rub or sand off the rust and cold-blue the ends of the pins. Then just save the new pin.

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Grand Poobah

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Re: PF9 DISASSEMBLY
Reply #2 - 04/14/07 at 07:17:51

REPLACING SIGHTS

INSTRUCTION FOR REPLACING PF-9 FRONT SIGHT:

   The PF-9/P11 front sight has two little plastic legs under it. The sight is attached by putting the legs through the two holes in the top of the slide and peening over (melting) the plastic legs on the inside of the slide.

TO REMOVE SIGHT:

   With a soldering iron or woodburner iron, (or something that you heated in the gas stove burner) gently heat the two prongs until they soften enough to pull the sight out with pliers. Now clean all residual plastic out of the slide.

TO INSTALL SIGHT:

   Place new sight into holes. (make sure dot is facing rear.) With aforesaid melting tool, gently peen over the ends of the legs while holding pressure down on the sight to assure a tight fit. Make sure that no plastic hangs down to interfere with barrel.

REAR SIGHT:

Click image to enlarge

The PF-9 rear sight is held in place by a shorter version of the extractor screw:

Click image to enlarge

The SIGHT screw has letters head stamped onto it-- You can almost read the "YFS" letters on this sight screw.

CAUTION: NEVER INSTALL THE SIGHT SCREW AS AN EXTRACTOR SCREW--DOING THIS MIGHT ALLOW THE FIRING PIN TO ESCAPE AND HIT YOU IN THE EYE WHEN SHOOTING.

TO REMOVE REAR SIGHT:

Remove sight screw and lift off sight.

TO ADJUST REAR SIGHT FOR WINDAGE:

Loosen sight screw. if pont of impact is left of the target, move sight to the right and vice versa.

TO ADJUST SIGHT FOR ELEVATION:

   This sight was originally designed so that you could RAISE the point of impact by adding shims under the screw--But the gun usually shoots high!

   To lower POI, you would have to remove the sight and carefully sand away some of the thickness of the sight bottom on a flat sheet of 200 sandpaper. You would then either have to shorten the sight screw, or install a thin washer under the screw head.

CAUTION: AN UNSHORTENED SCREW COULD RUIN YOUR SLIDE.

   This would best be done at the range, so each minor adjustment could be tested. NEVER remove more than 1/64 inch from the sight.

A NICE REAR SIGHT MOD:

   Using a center punch, you could lightly mark a dot on the slide, centered on the front of the sight. This would give you an indicator mark for reference to the sight adjustment.

SIGHT DOTS:

   The sight dots are just white paint. Sometimes the rear sight dots may fall out. If they do, just use a toothpick to fill the empty hole with white paint.

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Grand Poobah

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Re: PF9 DISASSEMBLY
Reply #3 - 04/14/07 at 11:46:07

AT HOME REPAIR FOR WALKING EJECTOR PIN:
'
http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1202779401

REMOVING AND INSTALLING EJECTOR:

UNLOAD AND FIELD STRIP. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE FRAME FROM GRIP--Just carefully drop hammer out of the way.

With the gun laying on it's right side, you will see the pin that holds the ejector:

Click image to enlarge

you will need to have it laying on a hard protective surface (I use the black "crate" from UMC FMJ ammo.) that is on top of something unyielding like a concrete floor or an anvil.

Now, with the proper size pin punch, (You can get a really nice set at Sears for about $4.)

1. Drive the pin down and all the way out:

Click image to enlarge

(On the P-11, there is a hole on the other side of the frame, so you don't have to remove the pin completely and can drive it back in from behind)
2. Find the removed pin if you can.
3. Remove the old ejector and slide in the new one.
4. With a thin wire or bent paper clip, form a "slave" pin and stick it up through the hole from the inside.
5. Now slide the roll pin down onto the "slave" pin and lightly tap it until it starts to enter the new ejector.

Click image to enlarge

If you have trouble getting it started, you can squeeze the end of the roll pin tighter with pliers.

6. Using a pin punch larger than the roll pin, (So you don't bugger up the frame or the end of the pin.) finish driving it down and in.

That's it.

Packer.

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Grand Poobah

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Re: PF9 DISASSEMBLY
Reply #4 - 04/14/07 at 11:46:50

REPLACING MAGAZINE CATCH

METHOD 1. Remove frame from grip. Mag catch is easily accessable then.

METHOD 2 WITH FRAME STILL IN GRIP:

1. REMOVE MAGAZINE, UNLOAD AND FIELD STRIP.

2. Using a small screwdriver, working either from the botom up or the top down through mag well, hook top of magazine catch spring and pry it out from under the frame.

While holding it there, Grasp it with needle nosed pliers and pull it out.

Click image to enlarge

Another way to do this is to use 2 screwdrivers, one to pry out the spring and another to pry spring up and out.

CAUTION: SPRING MAY FLY. MAKE SURE IT IS NOT POINTED AT YOUR FACE!

Click image to enlarge

Now you can push the old mag catch out.

INSTALLATION:

1. Slide new catch into place and hold it fully in.

2. With good light from over your shoulder: From top of mag well, and holding spring in needle nosed pliers with long side on left, poke long side of spring down into mag catch hole.

Click image to enlarge

3. With pliers or screwdriver, push right side of spring forward until it clicks into place.

Click image to enlarge

4. Inspect spring. The right side should be all the way forward. If not, make it so.

5. Make sure top of spring is tucked back under frame.

TROUBLESHOOTING:

If, after you have installed the mag catch the magazine jams in the grip and won't come out:

You have not latched the right side of the spring properly.

1. Carefully remove the floorplate from the magazine. (Hold the spring from flying out)
2. Now, with a common flat bladed screwdriver, gently pry the mag from the bottom (by the floorplate tabs) while holding in the mag release.
3. Reinstall the spring, making sure that the right side snaps into place.

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Grand Poobah

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Re: PF9 DISASSEMBLY
Reply #5 - 04/14/07 at 11:52:47

DISSASSEMBLING MAGAZINE:

1. UNLOAD MAGAZINE.
2. Using Assembly pin, poke it into the hole at bottom of mag plate.
3. Pull the pin and the plate forward about 1/4 inch.
4.There is a big long compressed spring inside.
CAUTION, THINGS WILL FLY AT YOUR FACE IF YOU JUST PULL IT OFF.
5. Point the bottom of the mag at a folded towel and carefully pull off the plate.
6. All of the parts are now free to come out. You might have to shake or push the follower out though.
7. Notice how the magazine retainer plate fits onto the spring bottom. Try to keep it on the spring if possible, so you know which end was up.

Click image to enlarge

Assembly:

1. Slide follower, with highest point facing forward, into the magazine body.
2. Slide spring, with highest point facing forward, into magazine body.
3. Install retainer plate by holding it with the button facing the spring, and sliding the spring into it.
4. Now flip the plate down so the button faces AWAY from the spring.
5. Push bottom of retainer plate, and spring, into the magazine body and hold it in with your finger.

CAUTION: IF SPRING ESCAPES, IT CAN HURT YOU! HOLD IT IN TIGHTLY! KEEP IT POINTED AWAY FROM YOUR FACE AND AT THE TOWEL.

6. Slide the base plate onto the magazine rails and move your finger out of the way as it travels forward.
7. Whack the back of the magazine against the towel to seat the retainer button.

MAGAZINE PROBLEMS

Quote from Chard on 04/22/07 at 21:36:59:

All I can load is six rounds in a mag marked 7.
Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Chard

Quote from PshootR on 04/22/07 at 22:45:20:

Do you have a second properly working PF-9 mag? If so, disassemble and compare both. Otherwise, disassemble the mag you have and remove any casting flash from the plastic follower and lightly sand it all over. On reassembly, check that the spring is seated properly and not bent. Sometimes new mags require unusual force to load the rated number of rounds the first few times. I have two 15 round Glock factory .40 S&W mags that are difficult (one) and impossible (the other) to load with more than 14 rounds. They both came with the used Sub 2000 I recently purchased.

Does your magazine follower look like this?

Click image to enlarge

   This wear to the soft plastic follower is caused by the spinning extracted case hitting the follower with its rim. It only happens with the last round in the mag.

   The only known cure, (So far) is to count your rounds and never shoot the last round out of the magazine. Then the wear will stop.

IF SLIDE FAILS TO LOCK BACK:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1206993522#11

   Is your slide stop tab gouging a hole in the left front of the follower? Call KT Service 1-800-515-9983 and order a new free slide stop replacement and follower.

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Grand Poobah

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PF9 DISASSEMBLY
Reply #6 - 04/14/07 at 11:53:04

PF9 FRAME REMOVAL

Unload and field strip. Use a container to hold the parts as you remove them:

Click image to enlarge

The above pic was taken on zeke's workbench during the original Shootnic, 10/28/06.

2. Place pad of something to protect the frame in front of the hammer, (It may crack if you let the hammer hit this weak area.) pull the trigger and let the hammer fall. This will prevent over stretching the hammer spring

3.With a common screwdriver, gently pry the hammer spring retainer BARELY out of the bottom of the grip and ease it back and down into the magazine well. Picture is shown for clarity. YOU MUST CONTROL SPRING CATCH WITH YOUR FINGERS:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Using a sharp nail, screw or knife, (A drywall screw works well) mark an X on the left side of each of the 3 frame pins:

Click image to enlarge

With the pistol laying on its left side, on something like a UMC hard plastic cartridge rack, drive out the three frame pins with a pin punch. If you don't own pin punches: Sears sells a nice set for 3 or 4 dollars.

Click image to enlarge

See the shiny metal pin at the middle right of this picture? (Yours may not be shiny.) That is the hammer block pin. LEAVE THIS ALONE UNLESS YOU ABSOLUTELY NEED TO WORK ON THE HAMMER BLOCK!. REMOVING THE SHINY PIN WILL COMPLICATE THINGS EXCESSIVELY!

Click image to enlarge

Now you will want to gently pull the FRONT of the frame up about ¼ inch. There are three things here that must be controlled as you remove the frame: The trigger bar on the right, and the slide stop and spring on the left. Pulling the frame without holding these parts down will cause them to fly out. As you pull up on the front, slide your thumb and index fingers down the sides onto these parts and hold them in place while you pull the frame (with hammer spring dangling) out of the grip

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

While holding the slide stop and spring on the other side, pull the trigger bar up and off of the trigger spring.

Click image to enlarge

Next, while holding the slide stop spring down, remove the slide stop and then the spring.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

You can never have too many pictures! here is an excellent version of PF-9 disassembly posted by zeke;

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1166663996
Packer.

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Grand Poobah

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Re: PF9 DISASSEMBLY
Reply #7 - 04/14/07 at 12:00:29

REMOVING AND INSTALLING HAMMER SPRING

On the left rear of the frame, you will see the hammer pin sticking out slightly:

Click image to enlarge

You will want to remove this, if it hasn’t already fallen out:

Click image to enlarge

. The hammer assembly can now be pulled from the bottom of the frame. Note that the spring is connected to the FRONT of the hammer bottom, and that’s how the hammer will be reassembled to the frame.

Click image to enlarge

ATTACHING HAMMER TO NEW SPRING:

This is a P11, but the PF9 hammer attaches exactly the same way.

Notice how the hammer is installed into the spring. The long shaft is to the front, and the end of the loop is to the rear: The new spring must be installed exactly this way:

Click image to enlarge

It makes a difference which side of the pin you poke out. Done properly, you will only drive the pin about 1/16" and then the spring loop will slide out:

Click image to enlarge

So we will want to drive the pin from the side that is at the bottom in the above picture.

Using the large hole in another P-11 hammer as a "hole anvil" (Sitting on a hard unyielding surface like steel or a concrete floor.) and a 1/16" pin punch, knock the hammer pin slightly out of the hammer:

Click image to enlarge

When finished, the large end of the hammer spring will slip out and the hammer pin will protrude slightly like this:

Click image to enlarge

Now lay aside the stock hammer spring. Lay the hammer flat with the pin sticking up. Notice that there are two different ends on the hammer spring. The loop on one end is somewhat larger than the loop on the other end.

Insert the larger loop of the new spring into the hammer. Make sure that long shaft is to front. While holding it centered, tap the pin gently, once.

Click image to enlarge

At this point, even though the pin is not yet all the way in, the spring loop should be captured. Check that loop of spring moves freely and is not trapped beneath the pin. If loop is trapped, drive pin slightly out and start again.

With a larger pin punch, (so as to not burr up the end of the hammer pin) drive the pin home until it is flush with the top surface of the hammer.

CONTINUED NEXT POST:

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Re: PF9 DISASSEMBLY
Reply #8 - 04/14/07 at 12:00:48

REMOVING AND INSTALLING TRIGGER PARTS

REMOVING TRIGGER: Tools needed: 1/16 inch pin punch, hammer, wooden blocks, firm surface like concrete, blue Loctite.

TRIGGER REMOVAL PROCEDURE:

REMOVE FRAME FROM GRIP AS ABOVE

1. Set frame upright between two wooden blocks so trigger hangs down freely. These blocks should be sitting on a solid surface like concrete or an anvil. When looking down on frame above trigger, you will see a small hole. This is the trigger-pin access hole.
2. Move trigger back so pin is visible through hole.
3. Trigger spring, trigger-axis and trigger are locked together by trigger-pin. Notice which way the spring arm points so you know how to put it back together. In this picture you can see the head of the trigger pin and imagine its path as it descends through the trigger, trigger axis and trigger spring:

Click image to enlarge

4. Drive trigger-pin down and out with punch and hammer. It may help to first heat the pin head with a hairdryer to loosen any Loctite. CAUTION: DON'T MELT THE TRIGGER!
5. Push trigger axis out the right side of frame and trigger spring comes with it.
6. Trigger can now be pulled out of bottom of frame.
7. Polish all friction surfaces with 400/600 sandpaper, clean and oil well.

INSTALLATION:

1. Insert new trigger up through frame.
2. Insert pin slightly into trigger.
3. Insert trigger axis into frame and trigger.
4. Remember how the spring looked before?

Click image to enlarge

You will know if you get it reversed because it will point backward instead of forward. With the arm pointing forward, put spring into the hollow of the trigger axis so loop will engage trigger pin when you pound it in.
5. With a toothpick, put just a tiny drop of blue locktite just under the head of the pin.
6. Insert the 1/16" pin punch down through the trigger axis and spring and into the trigger.
7. Now, while holding pin punch in place, drive the pin into the trigger, forcing the pin punch out as the trigger pin goes through the spring and axis.
8. When it is properly seated, the head of the pin will be flat against the bottom of the trigger.

TRIGGER IS ROUGH OR CLICKS OR DOES NOT FIRE THE GUN:

FIRST, check that the trigger pin is not backing out of the bottom of the trigger. If that is tight, the grip is probably bowed out at the right rear:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1207027325#2

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Two Pistol Packer is BANNED Grand Poobah Posts: 7641 Gender:	HAMMER BLOCK/GRIP CHANGE Reply #9 - 04/14/07 at 12:01:11 REMOVING AND INSTALLING HAMMER BLOCK Click image to enlarge One of these days I will find time to photo shoot this. Meantime, this site has instructions for a P-32 that apply: http://www.geocities.com/pocketguns/P32grip.html
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Grand Poobah

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TRIGGER SPRING POPS OUT
Reply #10 - 04/14/07 at 12:01:35

PROBLEM: Trigger goes slack because trigger spring pops out.

SEE PHOTOS IN NEXT POST

If all you want to do is replace the spring, you needn't disconnect the hammer spring.

1. Remove magazine and slide.
2. Mark an X on the left side of the frame pins.
3. From the right side, drive out ONLY the two FRONT pins.
4. Pull up slightly on the front of the frame.
5. Carefully hold the left front of the frame as you pull it up as far as it will go.
6. You will be holding in the assembly pin spring. It may fly away if you don't hold it.
7. With a toothpick, put some grease into the groove under the trigger bar.
8 Wind trigger spring counter clockwise and insert it into the groove. (You may need a tool to do this. The cap of a Bic pen works well.
9. While holding both sides at front, push frame back down into grip.
10. Push and drive the frame pins back in from the left side. Hint: The side with the X does not go into the hole.

POSSIBLE CURE:
Quote from KelTec_thingy on 05/22/07 at 19:08:40:

I did some "surgery" to the trigger spring groove (deepened it and de-burred it and finish sanded it at 1200 grit). I also slopped some grease in it.

I used a wafer thin Dremel cutting disc (by hand...NOT on the Dremel motor) I scraped the groove a bit deeper using the disc, then I folded a few small pieces of 400 and 600 grit sand paper to "polish" the groove and remove any burrs.

Quote from CB3 on 09/08/04 at 16:50:14:

The cut in the bottom of the trigger that the return spring rides in has critical dimensions. If your bar keeps popping out, you need to disassemble the pistol and inspect the bar closely--under some magnification.

The bar itself is thin, and the cut must be placed dead center between the edges, and it must be wide enough and deep enough for the end of the spring to ride in without popping out.

I had one trigger bar that had the cut placed a little to one side. That made the cut "wall" very thin, and it quickly wore out producing popped springs. This required a warranty replacement of the $.50 trigger bar. I now keep a couple of spares on hand, polished, groove inspected and ready to go.

Make sure you have a good groove, then closely inspect the end of the spring that rides in the groove. Reduce it's width just a little so it will ride deeper. Polish it and the cut, lubricate with a little grease, and you should have no further problems. CB3

Quote from yzguy on 09/13/04 at 12:43:27:

all you need to remove the hammer spring from the heel of the grip is a flat blade screwdriver:
http://1bad69.com/keltec/disassembly.htm

if the trigger return spring looks good, and the groove is good in the trigger bar, then the polymer grip may be a tad to loose on the right side. Remove the frame, and heat that side (where the spring is) with a hair dryer, then push in on it just a little and let it cool. When it does it will stay there. You only want it moved in a little though as to much can keep the trigger bar from moving freely, wich will cause it not to fire. Installing the clip with the metal frame pins can squeeze together the grip, but if to tight can also do it to much and bind up the trigger bar (although mostly seen on the P-32 and P-3AT's).

This has been going on with KT firearms for 12 years. What causes it could be many things:

1. Slot in trigger bar too narrow or not deep enough or too rough. Check how the spring tip rides in it. Deepen, widen or smooth as necessary.

2. Slot in trigger bar off-center. Replace trigger bar.

3 Spring off size or burred up. File to smooth size.

4. Too much clearance between trigger bar and grip. Heat grip with hairdryer and gently squeeze.

5. Lack of lube in trigger bar groove. Lube with heavy grease.

Packer.

Quote from W9WLW on 05/25/07 at 18:26:47:

Packer is right on! It happened to me the first time, and then it's made two other trips to the range with 100 rounds per trip with no worries. ......the lube/grease they apply upon assembly to keep it from rusting in a box on a shelf is a little to thick for the spring to move in the groove. I cleaned and greased my groove very well and it's still clicking along so far.

Quote from KelTec_thingy on 06/30/07 at 11:38:08:

Since my "E" model PF-9's first malfunction (the trigger spring popping out of the trigger bar groove), I've put about 300 rounds through it without another issue.

You'll recall I "deepened" the trigger bar groove...
It seems to have worked.

UPDATE: 7/12/07 A new trigger bar with deeper grroove for trigger spring is introduced. This should eliminate the "Trigger spring pops out" malfunction.
I estimate that SNs R2C and up will have it.

Quote from PshootR on 07/16/07 at 00:22:08:

Stopped by K/T last friday and the gunsmith said there is a new trigger bar for the PF-9 with a deeper groove in it.

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Re: PF9 DISASSEMBLY
Reply #11 - 04/14/07 at 12:11:03

REASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:

Now you can apply a little oil to its position and grease in the spring groove and install the trigger bar:

Click image to enlarge

Turn the spring counter-clockwise and push it into the groove on the trigger bar bottom:

Click image to enlarge

Now hold it in place and turn to the left side of the frame. Here you want to apply a little oil and install the slide stop:

Click image to enlarge

And then the slide stop spring:

Click image to enlarge

Now holding both sides in place, lower the frame into the grip. Snake the hammer spring down into the magazine well. You will have to pull the trigger back and guide it into its hole. Leave the frame a little high at the rear.

Click image to enlarge

This is the hammer block and the sequence of events you will follow:

Click image to enlarge

As you can see, you need something thin to push back the hammer block, or the frame will not go into the grip enough to put the rear pin in. (AND the gun won't work properly.) Here, I'm using a 1/16" pin punch to hold the hammer block back:

Click image to enlarge

Here is the same thing happening as the rear of the frame is lowered into the grip:

Click image to enlarge

Then let the frame move down onto the pusher. Now, while pushing down on the rear of the frame, withdraw the pusher. There should be no opening at the bottom, and the frame pin hole should be lined up. If this is NOT the outcome, repeat the above steps.

Now insert the frame pins. The end that goes into the hole is NOT the end with the X on it.

Click image to enlarge

Make sure the hammer is all the way forward. (Not C o c ked) Swing the hammer spring retainer over into place:

Click image to enlarge

Now you can reassemble the slide and install it with the assembly pin. Remember: The slide will not go all the way onto the frame rails unless the hammer is pulled back to "half c o c k."

Packer.

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PF-9 MODIFICATIONS
Reply #12 - 04/14/07 at 12:40:53

LHS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1178708109;start=0#0

WILSON SCALLOP EJECTOR MOD:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1167773748

STRAIGHTENING THE P-9 ACCESSORY RAIL:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1169257437

Easy trigger stop for PF-9, P-11 and P3AT:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1152892678

SMOOTHING AND DESNAGGING THE GRIP:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1166992454

Straighten (remove hook) trigger:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1180219459#7

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Re: PF9 DISASSEMBLY
Reply #13 - 04/14/07 at 12:41:13

PF-9 ACCURACY TIPS

   The PF-9 is actually a very accurate little pistol. It may like a six o'clock hold sight picture though because it naturally tends to shoot a little high.

   You might find that the trigger snap causes the muzzle to wander and might cause it to shoot low.

   Practice shooting snap caps until the muzzle does not move at trigger break. After a few hundred shots, you will be amazed at the accuracy improvement.

   A trigger stop may be helpful to you by cushioning the trigger snap. Here is a simple one to make:

Easy trigger stop for P-11, PF-9 and P3AT:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1152892678

   Start shooting from a close distance (10 feet to 5 yards) When you see where your shots are falling, adjust rear sight for windage. (Loosen screw with supplied 5/64" Allen wrench. push sight right to move POI right or vice versa. Gently tighten Allen screw.)

   The sights ARE adjustable for elevation if the gun ACTUALLY is shooting low. Small thin shims can be inserted under the sight to raise POI. (You might have to get an extractor screw from KT, because that screw is slightly longer.)

   As your shot placement gets better, move back a few yards at a time.

   If your range does not allow you to shoot this close--Temporarily use a bigger target.

   You will improve with practice.

Packer

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PF9 DAT INSTALLATION
Reply #14 - 04/14/07 at 12:41:42

PF9 DAT INSTALLATION:

CAUTION AND DISCLAIMER. THIS MOD IS NOT FACTORY APPROVED. YOU WILL BE MODIFYING A SYSTEM THAT DIRECTLY AFFECTS THE SAFETY OF YOUR WEAPON. IN THE INTEREST OF SCIENCE I WILL TELL YOU HOW TO MAKE THIS MOD, BUT I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT YOU DO IT! IF YOU DO SO, YOU PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK! Order and Keep the stock parts so you can easily return the pistol to factory stock condition.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED:

Diagonal cutting pliers, Needle nosed pliers, File, Sandpaper, Plastic Coffee stirrer from Wendy's, Silicone Spray, Packer's Wingnut, non-slip screw and custom light firing pin spring. PM WITH EMAIL FOR DETAILS.

CAUTION: THIS WILL MAKE YOUR PISTOL VERY EASY TO FIRE. KEEP FINGER OFF TRIGGER UNLESS YOU INTEND TO SHOOT. PRACTICE WITH SNAP CAPS BEFORE YOU LOAD THE WEAPON! YOU MAY BE SURPRISED WHEN THE GUN GOES OFF! KEEP ALL LOADED WEAPONS AWAY FROM CHILDREN!

UNLOAD & FIELD STRIP GUN:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1176553013

IFP MOD:

CAUTION: YOU MUST SHORTEN THE FIRING PIN TO CARRY THIS WEAPON SAFELY. Even though you COULD just install the custom light firing pin spring and depend on the hammer block to protect you, if your hammer block faiedl, the gun could fire easily when dropped.

If you push the firing pin in you will see about 1/32" of firing pin stick out of the breech. If you don't shorten the firing pin, then it can contact the primer if hammer block should fail.

REMOVE FIRING PIN AND CLEAN FIRING PIN CHAMBER:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1176553013#1

FOR MAXIMUM SAFETY, You must file the front of the firing pin about 1/32" shorter. Then you must also file the tip back to original dome shape:

Click image to enlarge

You need not modify the REAR of the firing pin.

Slide the new light firing pin spring onto the firing pin, spray a little silicone spray into the chamber, and install the firing pin using the coffee stirrer.

Now, ONLY after doing the above:

REMOVE FRAME FROM GRIP:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1176553013#6

And remove HAMMER SPRING:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1176553013#7

Clip hammer spring HERE:

Click image to enlarge

Using needle nose pliers (The cutting edges inside spring coils.) with fingers in jaws to prevent cutting the spring, gently wedge open the bottom two coils far enough to accommodate the DAT wing nut: The nut must be held by a full coil.

Click image to enlarge

3. With wing legs facing forward, poke end of wing nut into the first coil. You want the shorter side to end up on the left when gun is assembled Keep nut centered inside spring. This is how it should look when finished, with wing legs facing forward:

Click image to enlarge

4. Run (by hand) a 1/8" drill bit through hole in hammer spring catch so the new screw will just slide through freely.

5. THIS STEP IS OPTIONAL CAUTION: IF YOU DO THIS IT MAY ALLOW SCREW TO SLIP: With a larger drill bit, slightly countersink the hole for the head of the screw. Doing this MAY allow the screw to sit lower in the catch.

6. Thread screw through catch and into spring and nut. (With legs facing forward of screw) Tighten ONLY enough to temporarily hold it together.

7. Apply a little oil on the sides of the hammer. Make sure the hole is clear so you can see through it. put a drop of oil on the pin. Spray a little Silicone spray into the channel in the back of the grip, so the DAT can slide freely. CAUTION, DO NOT USE OIL! Now push the hammer up into the grip from the bottom. Make sure hammer is facing front. Position the nut so the wings slide into the channel. Allow the hammer to travel as far up as you can get it.

Now grasp the spring under the hammer gently with a pair of needle-nosed pliers:

Click image to enlarge

Using the back of the grip as a fulcrum, lever the hammer up enough and slide the frame down over the hammer:

Click image to enlarge

Line up the holes and insert the hammer pin.

Click image to enlarge

   Now you can reinstall the frame:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1176553013#11

   Then you can reassemble the slide and install it with the assembly pin.

  This is what the inside and bottom of your grip should look like now:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Tighten screw until snug or you reach a lighter spring tension than desired. Go to the range (Carry a phillips screwdriver with you.) and adjust until light strikes stop. Now add 1/2 turn for reliability and test all your ammo including what you carry.

If light strikes reoccur, add more tension in 1/4 turn increments. When you get it right, Add another 1/2 turn for insurance and mark the screw with a file so you can tell if it loosens. The locking ridges built into the screw, and the rubber washer, should keep it from moving though. If you are going to carry the weapon for self defense—Add another turn for security.

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