KTOG Forum - HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT

vantoo

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HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT
11/19/08 at 20:43:32

OK, I am in need of a little help or advice. I took the bolt out of my sub2000 and tried and tried to replace it per instructions. The bolt would not slide all the way into the receiver. After looking it over for about 20 minutes, I saw the bolt was hitting on the back of the hammer. So I take a long screwdriver from the front of the receiver and hold the hammer down and the bolt slides right in the way it is supposed to. Works just fine and shoots just fine. My question is, is this something normal or is something going on with my gun? All help appreciated. thanks again, Rick

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3wbdriver

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Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT
Reply #1 - 11/19/08 at 20:56:37

Some of us use a wooden dowel to do the same thing you did. It will get easier as the gun breaks in. I don't need any assistance anymore. Just firm pressure on the back of the bolt with the spring and buffer. I would recommend if you are going to do this as a regular thing you should get a 3/8 or 1/2" wooden dowel cut to the needed length. Less chance of nicking up the hammer. I believe this is recommended in the manual, but I could be wrong. It's been awhile since I read it.

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Whodat Full Member I Love YaBB 2! Posts: 107	Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT Reply #2 - 11/19/08 at 20:56:38 Hello Rick, When you started the disassembly, was the bolt in the forward position and the hammer cocked and on safety? If not, this might be your problem.
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RAT76 Grand Poobah Harley, America's best running two wheel tractor. Posts: 5562 Gender:	Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT Reply #3 - 11/20/08 at 08:03:46 Quote from Whodat on 11/19/08 at 20:56:38: Hello Rick, When you started the disassembly, was the bolt in the forward position and the hammer cocked and on safety? If not, this might be your problem. This was my first thought. The rifle must be cocked prior to disassembly.
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Tack_Driver Full Member Posts: 108 Gender:	Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT Reply #4 - 11/20/08 at 16:45:05 You can't get the bolt out without cocking it, so he would have had to To the O.P.- Don't worry about it, just run it home. If the hammer falls, you will have to use a dowel to press it down as previously said. If the hammer is cocked, just run it home.
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3wbdriver

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Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT
Reply #5 - 11/20/08 at 19:35:12

Actually if you drop the hammer accidentally while the bolt is out it will fall all the way forward, entailing dis-assembly to reset. Hence Kel-tec's warning in the manual that the hammer should be charged and the safety engaged. The hammer will still protrude slightly up into the bolt tube at full charge, but you can push the bolt up and over it when reassembling.

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Sub 2000 .40 S&W, G22 mag (Blued) - AKA Q-36 Illudium Explosive Space ModulatOr.
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cfr

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Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT
Reply #6 - 02/21/09 at 18:42:19

Quote from 3wbdriver on 11/19/08 at 20:56:37:

It will get easier as the gun breaks in. I don't need any assistance anymore. Just firm pressure on the back of the bolt with the spring and buffer.

So I just used this technique after uninstalling for my first time, thanks! I used my thumb to put just enough pressure on it until it went free. After piecing all the way back together I was able to work the action completely several times, and then dry fired it. I know this isn't good for it, but was dying to know that it would still function OK.

Now my question would be how could this be avoided? Why would this all be necessary? Isn't there a way to not have to "force" the bolt back in?

Also, I assume it will function fine as all felt right and I was able to dry fire it?

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3wbdriver YaBB Moderator Proud father in law of a LEGAL IMMIGRANT!!! Posts: 7269 Gender:	Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT Reply #7 - 02/21/09 at 19:15:22 They are all the same. The hammer has to drop so far to catch the sear, and once the sear is engaged it rises up into the bolt channel slightly. You would have the same problem with an AR if you could put the bolt in it with the lower attached. It becomes a non-issue once you get used to it.
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nbh40

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Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT
Reply #8 - 02/21/09 at 19:15:48

This confused the heck out of me also on first re-assembly, but managed to work out a bit of downward pressure with dowel etc would sort it. BTW my manual indicated nothing about this.

iro accidentally dropping the hammer while bolt is out - there is no need to disassemble - just use the same technique with the dowel to re-thingy the hammer. I found this out because when I could not get the bolt in I thought I may have released the hammer accidentally, so I squeezed the trigger to check - the hammer went forward, so I just re-cocked with a bit of dowel.

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wizard92 Senior Member Posts: 360 Gender:	Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT Reply #9 - 02/22/09 at 07:23:10 Have you ever wished you had read something first?
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cfr Junior Member I Love YaBB 2! Posts: 80	Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT Reply #10 - 03/09/09 at 21:04:44 I hate to bring up this dead thread, but I am unclear as to if just using pressure on the back of the bolt to get it in will cause damage or not? It seems to work fine for me and I've now done it 3 or 4 times (and fired it in between), but I don't want to cause any long term damage.
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3wbdriver

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Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT
Reply #11 - 03/09/09 at 21:14:42

Quote from cfr on 03/09/09 at 21:04:44:

I hate to bring up this dead thread, but I am unclear as to if just using pressure on the back of the bolt to get it in will cause damage or not? It seems to work fine for me and I've now done it 3 or 4 times (and fired it in between), but I don't want to cause any long term damage.

No. You are doing it fine. There will be no damage by reassembling without tools. Just some, especially of the newer ones need to be pushed in harder than others.

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Sub 2000 .40 S&W, G22 mag (Blued) - AKA Q-36 Illudium Explosive Space ModulatOr.
Sub 2000 .40 S&W, G22 mag (Hard Chrome)
Sub9-40 G22
P40 (Blued)
P3AT 2G (Blued)

911, government sponsored dial-a-prayer.
If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.

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junkmn YaBB Newbies I Love YaBB 2! Posts: 18	Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT Reply #12 - 03/14/09 at 01:37:49 FIrst time is the hardest. Once you figure it out, it is easier.
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paulazphx

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Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT
Reply #13 - 03/31/09 at 14:45:05

I almost gave up the first time, but I gave it "one last try" and it slid home.

However --- This is the second time I've stripped my sub-2000, and I can NOT get the bolt back in.

I followed the advice I read somewhere (probably in this forum) to use a shotgun swab to clean it, and I wonder if I could have somehow knocked the hammer forward? The safety is still on, so I don't believe I pulled the trigger.

I can reach in from the breach end and push the hammer down a bit, but not enough for the bolt to clear it.
Does that mean that I need to go find my strap wrench and disassemble it?

--
update: I decided to do some testing. I put a dowel in the breach, released the safety and pulled the trigger, and the hammer did go forward, showing that it hadn't been all the way forward when I was fighting it.

I was able to re-c0ck it, but still can't get the bolt past the hammer.

Thanks

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« Last Edit: 03/31/09 at 16:16:51 by paulazphx »

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3wbdriver YaBB Moderator Proud father in law of a LEGAL IMMIGRANT!!! Posts: 7269 Gender:	Re: HELP WITH BOLT REPLACEMENT Reply #14 - 04/01/09 at 12:14:36 Use the same dowel from the front to hold the hammer sightly down while you slide the bolt in. It gets easier each time you clean it.
Back to top	Sub 2000 .40 S&W, G22 mag (Blued) - AKA Q-36 Illudium Explosive Space ModulatOr. Sub 2000 .40 S&W, G22 mag (Hard Chrome) Sub9-40 G22 P40 (Blued) P3AT 2G (Blued) 911, government sponsored dial-a-prayer. If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck. IP Logged