For those who clean after every firing session, do you field strip and clean or just swab the barrel and wipe out the chamber?

Quote from Teacher on 11/04/09 at 18:04:28:

My self defense weapon, every trip it gets the works. Every 50 rounds a quick clean and lube and a full break down and lube before returning to service.  
Shep, if parts get worn they get replaced (I'm waiting on a 40 $ box of parts from KT right now to put in my range box, needed a refill  )  an ya I paid for those parts, it's called wear and tear. I'm sure service would send em out free  if I need em but I like to stock up on what I may need.
 
Quote:

 Clean enough and in proper working order to trust my families life on,   that clean...

I don't necessarily disagree with the "clean it every time" approach.  But.....for a carry gun, the first shot after a cleaning/reassembly could be the shot that your life depends on.  wouldn't it be wise to have fired at least one shot after reassembly to make sure that you put it back together right?
 
Yeah....these guns (like most semis these days) are hard to screw up in a simple field strip and reassembly....but a function check can't be a bad idea......
 
(so then we are in the chicken/egg scenario; do we carry a slightly dirty gun....or an untested one?  I don't have the answer; these days, if I am planning on carrying (which I don't do too often), I just run a patch through and clean what I can, without a field strip, unless I fire it a lot)

[quote author=shep854 link=1257278522/0#14 date=1257342918]For those who clean their guns a lot, be sure to do it gently.  You can damage a gun by cleaning, especially takedown pins, screws, etc.  Many military weapons have had finishes "cleaned" off, not to mention parts damage from excessive disassembly.
quote]
 
 
Any reason not to use Gun Scrubber to clean, the version safe for polymer guns, and then gently oil and grease.  
 
Seems it would be less likely to damge the gun, no  brushes, rubbing the internal parts, etc. i use it on my other guns.
 
What do you think?

Quote from fez on 11/05/09 at 10:05:42:

 Yep, same as dry firing.  The reason you should NOT dry fire is that the FP , without the resistance of a primer (or spring to immitate one) the FP travels fast and is suddenly stopped by reaching the end of it's travel with great force causing undue stress to the system.  A dowel, unlike a round or snap cap, would offer far less resistance.

Quote from fez on 11/05/09 at 10:05:42:

 
The snap caps I use have a plastic "primer" that shows an indentation when the FP hits it. I wonder if you could touch this up once in a while by putting a drop of rubber cement into the indentation, so that you can continue to see whether the FP is striking it properly?

The point that will likely wear out and kill a PF9 is most likely the take-down pin hole.  Eventually, moving the steel pin through the aluminum frame will enlarge the hole to where the pin cannot stay in place.  When this happens, it will likely be cheaper to buy a new pistol; I can't imagine Kel-Tec replacing a frame (which is, after all, the 'real pistol' part) for such wear and tear.  How long this may take, I have no idea, but sloppy technique will speed it up.

If accounts on KTOG are accurate, Kel Tec has replaced frames before with the original serial number transferred to the new frame