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Slide/hammer interface burr
KTOGer Glenn Higa has the following advice for removing burrs on the hammer face and/or underside of the slide

If you have trouble with deformed metal ("burrs") on the right side of the hammer face or on the underside of the slide just to the right of the "the spot" (the area where the ramp makes a 90 degree turn into the big end of the firing pin), you will need to widen the ramp in the area of "the spot". You can make a visual check by removing the barrel and recoil spring, reinstalling the slide then watching as the hammer moves over "the spot" as the slide is being retracted. You will see that the ramp is just a hair too narrow. In some cases the raised burr on the slide scrapes the top of the aluminum frame on 2 points just to the right of the hammer. To check this out, remove the hammer in addition to the barrel and recoil spring and work the slide on the frame. If the following modification does not clear this up, you will have to remove a little material from the frame also. Remove the firing pin so it doesn't get damaged during the modification process. Widen the ramp in the area of "the spot" with a needle file and duplicate the original radius of "the spot". Smooth it out with crocus cloth or Dremel tool. Put the hammerless, barrel-less, recoil springless gun together and check for frame to slide interference. If that's OK, reinstall the hammer and check for proper clearance at "the spot". If this checks out you're home free. All you need now is Cole LaFrance's trigger job and you've got a $200 gun that feels like a $400 (at least!) gun.