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Trigger Return Stop
"What: ANOTHER Trigger Stop?"

Hey, if ONE trigger stop on a P11 is good, then TWO must be even better, right? That's my theory, anyway. I installed the White Trigger stop and liked it; it makes a difference with the slight overtravel problem after the trigger breaks. But what about the OTHER end of the trigger, ie., the first few millimeters of its journey towards the wonderful "Land of Bang?"

In examining my P11, I found that there was a tiny (but noticeable) amount of loose play just before the trigger bar engaged. I didn't notice this much during the first shot, but during repeated shots, I found my finger tending to lose contact sometimes during the return of the trigger to its fully reset position, and I found it hard to guess exactly where to resume pulling, as I often can when "staging" some other triggers. I surmised that this problem must be due to either:

a) My crappy skills and training
b) The trigger. Because the trigger travels quite a distance before it returns to its starting position and reengages the transfer bar before it has stopped fully, there is a good chance for my index finger to be "a body in motion" that will "tend to remain in motion" just a little too long.

Faced with a choice between spending time tinkering with the P11 or practicing more with the trigger, the choice seemed clear -- tinkering of course! If you feel the same way, here's how to make a TRIGGER RETURN STOP for the FRONT of your trigger that will eliminate the play but not get in the way of your trigger finger or even be very noticeable once installed.

--Drop the magazine and confirm that the P11 is unloaded.

--Use the same basic materials and principles as with the White Trigger Stop, ie., crazy glue, eraser head, filing until the break is correct, etc.

--If you want, start by rounding the edge of the top front of the trigger recess, a bit just in front of the base of the trigger (see below for the rational optional first step)

--Try to measure the amount of "play" in your trigger before it catches and starts to move the transfer bar. What you want to do is estimate the distance from the top end of the front of the trigger (just above the trigger proper and at the base of the trigger where it first narrows) to the nearest edge of the front of the trigger recess. You are going to make a stop just large enough to allow the trigger to return fully and reset itself vis a vis the transfer bar, while preventing it from moving any further forward (ie., eliminating the remaining "play") because it will bump into the edge of the trigger recess in front of the trigger base, and this will stop it.

--Cut the eraser head to slightly larger than the size you think you'll need (better too thick than too thin, b/c you can always file more off, but you can't add more on.) Your front Trigger Return Stop will probably end up being less wide than the White Trigger Stop.

--Hold the eraser piece onto the front of the trigger, up above the trigger proper, and in the place where it narrows a bit just before entering the recess in the top of the trigger guard. Repeatedly pull the trigger while pointing in a safe direction and then let the trigger return, filing the trigger stop in between until each trigger pull until you can get the trigger to return fully with just a little bit of pressure on the trigger return stop. Don't go any further than that yet. You DON'T want it to FULLY reset yet.

--NOTE: you want to get the trigger stop fairly close to the right size before gluing it down, because once it is glued, it will be harder to access location for achieving a nice even filing job. But still, better too much than not enough.

--So why didn't you file the stop until the trigger fully reset without any additional pressure from you? Because, unlike the White Trigger Stop, your front Trigger Return Stop is likely to impact the EDGE of the front of the trigger recess and will be under a weak FORCE from the tension of the trigger return spring. That means it will tend to be creased a bit by the edge of trigger recess with time. I purposely pressed the stop just a bit against the recess to accelerate the process, then left it overnight with just the trigger return spring tending to force it forward.

--OPTIONAL FIRST STEP: By the way, I also rounded the corner of the trigger recess just a bit and smoothed it out so it wouldn't "dig" in as much where the stop hits it If you decide to do this, you will want this to be your first step.

--When you are ready to leave the trigger stop overnight, go ahead and glue it into place. This will be trickier than the White Stop, because there is less room to work and the trigger guard is more in your way. I would guess the non-runny gel form of crazy glue would be better then the regular kind for this job, and perhaps some old tweezers. Be careful, because this is one of those "glue your fingers together and make a mess" situations that will definitely hurt your chances of getting hired by Bill Wilson to do trigger stops for $2000 Colts. Fortunately, the crazy glue doesn't dry as fast with the rubber, so you have a few seconds to adjust it if you need to, but after that, be careful not to bump into it again. I let mine dry a good 20 minutes.

--After this creasing has run its course and the trigger is now resetting properly with almost no play at all, you will want to harden the face of the front Trigger Return Stop so that no more creasing occurs. I did this by carefully adding a couple more layers of crazy glue and letting it dry for a good 2 hours before letting the trigger come forward again against the stop. (No sense turning it into a cleanly-breaking, 30lb trigger, after all.)

--By the way, if you screw up a bit and end up with too much play by the time the crease has set, just try adding some more layers of crazy glue before you take the more drastic step of ripping the stop out and starting over.

--Note: It is VERY important that you confirm that the trigger will reset EVERY single time, unless you want to claim the distinction of owning the only single shot P11 on the KTOG!

--Voila! Now go ahead and add your cosmetic touches as with the White Trigger Stop.

My front Trigger Return Stop resets perfectly every time, but with no play either in the front or the back of its travel due to my having installed both stops. The result is a nice, tight, "clockwork" feeling that gets the most out of this long trigger. As a bonus, it looks even more natural than my White Trigger Stop, which is larger and more visible and is mounted on the back of the trigger proper (not up in the recess). I don't seem to lose contact with the trigger as much anymore, because when it returns and resets, it just stops dead, and it is very predictable. I guess I have no excuse but to improve my crappy trigger skills now. Unless someone can think of a way to add a THIRD trigger stop to the P11 and let me know.